Greetings, LCT'ers!!

I've been away for a while tending to somewhat critical family matters, but I'm back (FWIW), and have some questions for you seasoned travelers...

We recently booked a land vacation to London & Paris for Christmas, and New Years and are seeking recommendations for any must see/do sights, restaurants, cafe's and museums. Of course shopping tips are appreciated as well....(being that I just can't seem to stop the "ohhhh, that's nice, I thinkI need one of those," or "does this make me look fat?," or "of course I want the shoes in both colors" impulses...).

What's planned so far...

Basic City Tours (hop-on-hop-off) of both cities
Stonehenge/Bath Tour
Versailles Tour
Monet's Home Tour
Lunch at Le Jules Verne
Dinner Cruise on The Seine (don't ask, Paul's only "want")
Eurostar Train between both cities

Beyond the obvious touristy things, looking for the best Indian restaurant in London, a great off-the-beaten-path, or quirky, or even hoity-toity place for high tea, also in London. Things that would interest the Pastry Chef (Paul) in Paris & London.

Any tips are appreciated, as well as suggestions for things you have done, or wish you would have done are great as well.

Finally, what is the best way to deal with our iPhones (ATT), as we would like to bring them along to stay in-touch with our friends & family. I figure I can poach free wi-fi here-and-there for my MacBook, yes?

Thanks in advance for your input

Savoy on the Strand famous for High Tea.


London is best theatre city in the world - numerous productions for all tastes.

Thanks, Ted! Tea at the Savoy looks great - good call.

Saw A Chorus Line in London about a billion years ago...

Hi Robert! No trip to Highclere castle aka as Downton Abbey?? You must not be a fan

Your trip sounds great Robert. I like what you have planned. I've been to Monet's garden and it was fabulous. Not much in the way of recommendations though except... Freddie made a post some time ago about Paris that was very in depth. You might try looking for it, but I have no idea what forum it was on. I think it was back in 2009 when some of us did the christmas river cruise but it could have been after that. It had a lot of really great info from someone who spent a lot of time in Paris.

As for the phone...there is a current thread Marc started about iPhone use in London as we are going to Scotland in a couple of weeks and he was asking the same questions. Might want to check it out too.

Hey Karen & Arlene!

No, K, not a fan, but I'm sure to get in my share of trouble...

Thanks, A, I'll look for Freddie's post and I'm following the thread Marc started. Figured it couldn't hurt to overlap.

I found the posts, A.

It was a reply to a post I made for a trip I had to cancel 6 years ago (I guess I'm too old to remember that far back...) so I'm reviewing the information everyone so graciously shared, and looking for anything new!

Robert - The posts to which Arlene referred begin on page 20 of the 2009 thread entitled ""PARIS" Christmas Wonderland River Cruise 12/12/2009 ROLL CALL".

You will note that I had (and still have) some serious reservations (pun intended) about eating at La Jules Verne, as it's very expensive for the quality of food, dressy (at least it used to be), and isn't very high up in the Eiffel Tower. Please report back to us on your experience there.

Ah, as for the dinner cruise on the Seine, please consider an alternative. The Seine tour boats are marvelous and a remarkable way to see the city and its architecture from a different perspective. If possible, do one in the daytime and another at night. The disadvantages of the dinner cruises are: 1. You will be inside and not necessarily next to a good window; and 2. You will be partially focused on the food and not on the wonderful views. Perhaps a better alternative would be to have a great dinner (which you won't have by a long shot on the river tour boats) at a bistro and then take the evening Bateaux Mouches tour on the river.

The Eurostar is an excellent mode of travel between London & Paris. If it's available on the day of your trip (and you want to splurge), the Business Premier class is quite good and includes access to a dedicated lounge at the station.

The Food Halls at Harrods, as well as Fortnum & Mason, should be of interest to Paul in London. In Paris, he should visit the shrine of French cooking equipment:

E.DEHILLERIN
Expert in kitchen and pastry tools and cookware
18 et 20, rue Coquillière
51, rue Jean- Jacques Rousseau - 75001 PARIS

Dehillerin is not like a trendy U.S. cooking shop (such as Sur la Table or Williams Sonoma). Rather, it is where French cooking pros buy their gear. It is great fun to visit, although the staff there can show serious attitude towards tourists. Therefore, it would be practical for Paul to point out at the beginning that he is a professional pastry chef looking for equipment. There are loads of French pastry items, such as the Gobel molds for Friand cakes (aka Financiers), that are not available in the U.S. (I bought mine at Dehillerin.) My guess is that Paul will be in gear heaven at Dehillerin and will do serious damage to his credit cards there.

For your ATT iPhones, simply sign up for one of the ATT international plans (described on their website). They are not cheap, though; so if you plan to make a lot of calls, buying a throw-away phone in London and another in Paris would be a more economical route. Just like here, they're sold at lots of places.

Have fun.

Cheers, Fred

Ah, Sir Fred, thou rocketh.

The JV dinner is absurdly expensive, lunch more doable (somewhat), so I'm still pondering that one given your input.

We're already booked in BP on Eurostar - should be nice.

I was personally dreading the "dinner cruise," and like your suggestions on the alternatives. I'll try and sway P in your direction, but if I have to give on this one, I'll win on a couple of others. Life is but a negotiation, no? <grin>

Excellent tip on Dehillerin - P will have his Le Cordon Bleu business cards which should help dispel any attitude. Damage to the credit cards? Heh, that's okay, the chap deserves to have some fun...

Will go the ATT route for calls, and rely on free wi-fi for data (minimal use needed).

Thanks for the information, much appreciated.

London: I don't know if you're interested in WWII history, but a visit to Churchill's War Rooms is fascinating. It is just as if they had all walked out of them five minutes before you walked in.

I must admit I found Stonehenge a bit disappointing as nowadays you can't get close to the stones.

We had a lovely lunch in Paris at Fauchon: http://www.fauchon.com/en/

And at the Musee d'Orsay another incredible lunch.
The French Onion soup was amazing.

when I was in Paris in April they were doing a lot of renovations on the Eiffel Tower, including upgrading restaurants and a couple of elevators were closed down making extra long lines. Don't know what the completion date is.
In London, try the Cafe Royale. It's beautiful and where all the famous poets, artists & authors hung out in the late 1800s. If they haven't changed, you can have a dinner reservation before a play and return for desert & coffee after.
Jim

I second the idea for lunch at Musee d'Orsay. Very nice and not terribly expensive.

We have not eaten in the Eiffel tower as I agree--outrageously expensive. Of course, one of my favorite things is just to wander around and find a place that looks good, preferably on a side street.

I have to agree that Jules Verne is ridiculously expensive. However, Al and I had lunch there the day the LCT group left for PARIS a few years ago and it was really an experience. We had a table next to the window and the view was spectacular! The food was beautifully served and delicious. We still talk about it - one of our most memorable and romantic meals together. We would do it again in a heartbeat.

Also love Brasserie Balzar on Rue des Ecoles for dinner - wonderful Dover Sole, roasted chicken and the obligatory steak-frites!

Robert, I have a reservation at Heston Blumenthal's Dinner at the Mandarin Oriental next month in London. I can let you know how it is.

Hello again, Robert, and welcome back (and hello to Paul)! Been a long time, and hope all is well with you.

You two will have a wonderful time! I'm not much of a foodie anymore, but remember in my earlier years (no internet) reading so many travel guides every time we went to Paris. We "did" it up right. Most memorable was a restaurant overlooking Notre Dame Cathedral (I think the roof retracted, it was famous at the time (just too long ago, I was in my early 30's). It was outrageously expensive and til then, I had never had a cart with a huge silver soup tureen wheeled up to my table to deliver the soup course. I remember a lot of red on the walls, it was the early 70's so it may have been "flocked" wallpaper and hung with velvet curtains. I loved every minute of it, so go for any "splash" if you feel the need. Sometimes we do, and it makes "forever" memories.

The waiters delighted in our being awestruck, and were just fantastic, not one bit condescending as people seem to think the French are today. I even struggled with my college french. They love that. I have never thought of the French as being unfriendly, so long as you smile a lot, try any French phrases you know, and remember you are a guest in their country.

The only "excursion" I might question is visiting Giverney at that time of the year. Monet's home is nothing really spectacular, it's the gardens that attract people there. Not sure that they would be impressive in the middle of the winter.

One of my favorite places in Paris is the Musee d'Orsay. But I love the Impressionists. I didn't have lunch inside, but remember taking it at some outdoor cafe nearby. Get the head sets if you go there to guide you around.

Have loved my Seine boat tours, day and night but never a meal onboard those trips, but if that's all Paul really has asked for, let it be. If you like chapels, don't miss the small one at Ile de la Cite. Most beautiful stained glass I have ever seen, the whole structure, basically, and I was last there before it was heavily damaged in a storm several years ago, but hear the repairs were done quite well. I also love strolling around the area of Notre Dame, but have not done this in the winter.

Last time I was in Paris was on the Christmas Market cruise with BK, I think in late 2009. Met my daughter and her then fiance who came from England to join me for a few days before the river cruise on AMA. I was overcome somehow with the worst jet lag I've ever had, and slept through most of it, but they soldiered on and had a great time, especially on the HOHO bus. lol, we had long dinners together. And I don't remember where, except in walking distance of the hotel.

I have never had a bad trip to Paris. That's just not going to happen. But be ready for sticker shock if you want to shop til you drop. Just can't help you there!

Have also done the Eurostar train, if that is what I remember as the "chunnel" (tunnel under the English Channel. You will love it. Did that with one daughter going to visit her sister when she was doing a summer in Paris studying. It goes so quickly. I can't even remember how we got to the train from London, and what we did to get to Paris. lol, we must have been in the "bar car".

In London, a visit to Harrods food hall a must, especially for Paul! I found it a bit "stinky", but Paul may love the scents. London has so many things to do, you just can't go wrong. England is very expensive. I have had one visit there when the US dollar was equal to a GPS. Not so today.

Oh, and I suffered through the "war rooms" (as someone mentioned above) years ago with my then husband. Guns and armor mostly bore me, but when one of my daughters studied in London one summer for a "Churchill Leadership" course, she absolutely loved them, she sure saw more than I did. lol, I preferred seeing the crown jewels at the Tower of London myself. Be sure and book a play, any play, but I prefer a musical. Pick a long running classic that you have never seen if nothing "new" interests you is my suggestion.

There is fantastic Indian food in London, just ask your concierge at the hotel to suggest one, there are many good ones, I'm sure. Stumbled on one myself one day for a late lunch with a daughter, don't remember where but it was sure good! Be sure to "mind the gap" on the tube, and not be too disturbed if suddenly there is an alert of some kind down below. And throw a few coins to a good musician you enjoy down there.

Have a great time, and come back and tell us about it!

I just read all posts. I know London a bit better than Paris, but first...absolutely high tea at th Savoy.. Not cheap, but nothing in London is cheap. Eurostar in first class is a much better option than tourist. Class.
If you want a few hours of pleasant walking and peace, visit Hampstead Heath in The suburbs of London. It is beautiful. you mentioned shopping, and you really should not miss Harrods during the holidays. It is quite spectacular.
As far Indian cuisine, you might ask the concierge for one off the beaten path. There are so many good ones, but you don't want one made for tourists.
Ok. That is all I can think of right now, but if you need more ideas in London , I have a few friends there, and one is a chef!
Lynn

Hi Robert and Paul

Like Freddie and others have said: Harrod food halls in London and Dehellerin in Paris. Like Olivia said: sometimes the splurge creates a lifelong memory. Twelve years later, we remember a magical dining experience at Carré des Feuillants like it was yesterday. Olivia, were you thinking of Sainte-Chapelle as the church near Notre Dame? http://goparis.about.com/od/parismonuments/a/sainte-chapelle-paris.htm

We spent the first week of July in London; haven't been back to Paris for a couple of years.
Favorites from Paris:
-Laduree just to see the decor (and excellent macaroons) http://www.laduree.com/douceurs/?___store=en.
-Cafe Angelique for their chocolat l'Africain http://www.angelina-paris.fr/en/#/hot-chocolate-history/
-Berthillon for ice cream http://sweets.seriouseats.com/2012/07/snapshots-from-paris-berthillon-ice-cream.html

London:
-Koffman's in the Berkeley Hotel between Hyde Park and Knightsbridge. We went with an early prix fixe dinner and picked different items so we could sample more of the fare. http://www.the-berkeley.co.uk/knightsbridge-restaurants/koffmanns/
-Best restaurant we've found in the London area is the River Cafe in Fulham http://www.rivercafe.co.uk/rc_page.php . If you like pasta .. you know what to do!
-Clarke's on Kensington High Street is also memorable; check menu as it changes daily and is generally one offering per course. If you don't like what's on offer, her bakery next door is an informal way to sample her approach to British cuisine, well delivered. Cheese choices are worth a look or sample. http://www.sallyclarke.com/

As for plays, "The Cripple of Inishmaan" was getting good press. It's set through August 31 (but if it gets extended may be worth it).

The musical "Once" is also playing in London (through Nov 30 - may be extended) . If it is staged as it was in New York, there's a pre-show show 30 minutes before curtain. http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/...once-londons-newest-musical-8561158.html
"Book of Mormon" is also there. We liked both of those shows but saw them in New York.

I'd recommend Chartwell (Churchill's home) for a day trip but it looks like it's largely closed when you will be there. Check the National Trust's website to see if anything sparks your interest http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/

Cheers, Anne

If you're Monet fans the largest collection of his works are in the Marmottan Museum in Paris, including "Impressions of a Sunrise."

Haven't been to Paris in several years but many museums were closed on Tuesdays but Marmottan was closed on Mondays last time we were there.

Enjoy!

The Marmottan is really worth a visit for the Monets.
There is a really good traditional French restaurant a bit further down the street from the Bertillon ice cream place, on the left, that is outstanding.
And finally, definitely do first class on the Eurostar. And beware the taxi line at the train station when you arrive in Paris. It can be quite daunting. Watch your billfold as pickpockets abound.

Robert, I agree that Monet's house is not much to look at and I dont believe the gardens which are the real attraction there are open until April. In winter you will surely appreciate a nice hot chocolate at Angelique's!
We have had dinner on the Tour Eiffel and agree with others that the food while good is not as exceptional as its prices would suggest but the experience and memories are priceless
-------------------
Helen

Robert, If you are going to Stonehenge, take the side trip to Avebury. This is a larger circle, actually a few joining circles that you can walk up to and actually touch the stones. They are all around the town.

Olivia, were you thinking of Sainte-Chapelle as the church near Notre Dame? http://goparis.about.com/od/parismonuments/a/sainte-chapelle-paris.htm

Anne, indeed I was! We visited both, but maybe two different days, heck, I just got on the metro or whatever and on that trip, just handed it over to her. We were staying in the Left Bank, where she was living for a few weeks.. SO many good sights in Paris!

Editing to say that after Helen's comments, no need for that Monet tour Robert. Save it for another time, when the gardens are blooming. You have so much time ahead of you!

London at Christmas and Paris at Christmas are totally different experiences. London closes down for two days. You can't even get a taxi, the tube or a tour. Paris stays open so, if you have a choice, be in Paris over XMAS. We were totally bored in London on those two days. Everyone leaves the city and tours are nil and no shows. Most restaurants are closed, except hotel restaurants.

You have to go to Harrods for the food court for lunch. It is great. We took a good tour to Bath. The palaces may not be open, but they are great to see. I love the Red Carnation Hotels in London.

Paris ... everything is open and doable. Paris a Pied is a wonderful walking tour company.

WOW! Thanks everyone for all the information, and recommendations! We've opted out of the Stonehenge tour, and dinner cruise (thankfully!). We booked a 4 castle day-trip outside of Paris and will have an extra day of wandering the streets of London instead. Will save the Monet gardens tour for a Springtime trip sometime in the future....

Paris will be over Christmas & New Years in London (friends will be joining us from Austria for NY Eve) and the plan is to get us "on the list" at some Moet & Chandon function as one of them is a Sales & Marketing Exec at LVMH.

Chartres Cathedral is a medieval gothic church with stunning stained glass windows - especially when the sun shines through! The cathedral was saved by towns people during the French Revolution. The windows were protected prior to WW11 and there was little damage to the cathedral.

It is about 50 miles south of Paris and worth the drive.

So much to see and so little time.

Your trip sounds sensational, Robert! Don't know where you're staying, but not far from Louis V on the Champs is a wonderful bistro called Chez Andre. Our last trip to Paris was (sadly!) for only one night as a stop over on our way (happily!) to Shanghai. That one night was Christmas Eve. We didn't want a 'big event' as we already had an entire trip of 'big events' lined up...but it was Christmas Eve, and it was Paris!! Anyway, after many emails with our concierge, he suggested Chez Andre which was a perfect, low key but outstanding dinner.

After dinner, we walked along the Champs....the Christmas lights made the magic of Paris even more so.................

Can't wait to hear the details of your trip when you return! Bonnie