great picture. can't wait for the bears

August 3

ARCTIC is Cathartic

Long ago, in the land of NORGES (national phrase: “It's not so bad”), fourteen intrepid ARCTIC sailors met in Tromso for a tundra tour on one terrific trawler.

In the same vein of the old saying, “St. Christopher leaves the car at 80,” NORGES has its own version of that rule: 'No Net in Northernmost Norges”. We expect internet interruptus for the 79th+ parallel, about 3 or 4 days in total. Kevlar Kohler is glad I have knock-out cough syrup, as I may need it to also overcome no-net DTs.

The Bittles were the first to arrive, meeting and greeting each ARCTIC companion. First stop was the Verthuas Skarbar, home to the 'all you can eat' fish soup meal deal. The NO BAR TOO FAR challenge began, as that bar only carries beer from the northern most known brewery. Braveheart Bittle and Kevlar Kohler imbibed in appreciation.

Our hotel rooms guaranteed to ease the transition to shipboard life (less than 200 sq feet of living space) and the “24 hour splendid shining sun” conditions. Our hotel hosts remarked 'it's not so bad!' as they continued along their daily life. The suitcase rack cleverly extended from the wall, with about 1/2” clearance to the opened bathroom door. That is efficient use of space design on steroids.

The Webster men opined on the visdom of visiting the Polaria exhibit, complete with a Northern lights slideshow (guaranteed to bring on the much-needed catnap at peak jet lag moments) and the 180 degree overview of Svarbard.

Our fearless leader has alluded to the price of chow in Norges. Anecdotal evidence was noted in the breakfast room. For the low, low price of 50 NOK (that's $8.33 to those of you on the other side of the Atlantic), you too could get a plastic take-away container. Many guests were packing it full of breakfast food, to be enjoyed as their later-in-the-day meal. I didn't check out whether the mini-bar provided room for storing the 'meal deal' or not.

Monday afternoon meant ARCTIC was present and accounted for, 100% of their luggage at their side. 13:45 sharp meant the transport arranged by the Tiara-Toting Tour Leader and her Handsome Husband Hulk Hutyra arrived to ferry us to the ship. Braveheart Bittle and Kevlar Kohler grabbed the perimeter patrol seats, as our driver divided the duffles and stacked the softside suitcases doubly deep along the aisle, saying “see? It's not so bad!” . Marcie, Joanna and Olivia – it brought back memory of the van transfer from VJ7 from Dover to London. How clever they are in the land of NORGES – no air bags or seat belts required – use the items at hand to buffer the riders!

Ten minutes later, we arrived at our home away from home, the Prince Albert II. The crew called out “deck 4 has arrived” as we scurried along to our cabins. Luggage arrived within fifteen minutes, and we set about unearthing the various and sundry places to store one's effects for the duration of the voyage. Lunch was next, followed by the call to the mandatory life drills, followed by expedition staff introductions. Cocktails were served, then dinner. All were ready for an early night's rest.

We reached the Nordkapp area (loose translation: takes a lot of time to look through fog at monument marking northern most point of continental NORGES) at 7 am. Tiara arranged for ARCTIC to occupy a single zodiac. We donned our gear for the initial Zodiac run, circumnavigating the Bird Island sanctuary for Kittywaites, guilletmots, cormorants, gannets, puffins and sea eagles. We returned to a POOCH fest, where the Webster men laid down their gauntlets. Who will take away the POOCH WINNER badge? Stay tuned for further reports. Brayden is a worthy challenger to the title, but Ralph is a worthy champion, dedicated to holding his title.

Lunch and the Cape beckoned. We gaped at the proposed walking trail from the safety of the ship. Your reporter decided to save her typing fingers and instead engaged in REM sleep to better memorialize ARCTIC ANTICS for our collective edification and enjoyment. Half set out on the pioneer's trek to the Nordkapp; the rest set out on the modern trail (18 wheels) to view the film and enjoy the overlook. Kevlar Kohler reported back: “Your instinct was right to strike the hike. It was BRUTAL!” The ARCTIC company who undertook the hike agreed with that assessment. Purple hearts were in plentiful supply. Kevlar Kohler further reported that, upon achieving the pinnacle, a mirage appeared in the distance .. a source of universal movement and connectedness .. yes .. it was

HARLEY DAVIDSONS .. as far as the eye could see .. which meant 2 of them.

He drew closer, as if called to the clan, and the fog unveiled more HARLEY DAVIDSONS .. two or three at a time .. two or three more, and more, and more .. earlier bikes disappearing in the ether behind him. Sturgis, eat your heart out.

The return trip to the ship included the stop at the Sami historical homestead (Lapplanders to all of you older than 50), where the Reindeer with the Regal Rack was chomping on the grass.

Your reporter awoke during the hiking time to search out the tea selection. Three people were there to receive the help and attention of the eight people assigned to the tea room. Silversea has a different philosophy when it comes to tea or coffee. You will not find a self-serve coffee or tea pot anywhere on the ship. This adds greatly to the elegance of tea service; but it a distinct hindrance when the entire ship's company is jolted out of slumber at 9:30 for a MANDATORY briefing on the 'thou shalt nots' of AEPA expedition travel. In true expedition style, our briefing was interrupted by humpback and fin whale sightings. We are awaiting the other briefing from our tiara-Toting leader organization, PACE (Princesses Are Correct Everytime), to learn the dos and the dont's of luxury travel.

Upon resuming our briefing, we received a warning straight from the bridge. Our Expedition leader warned we may not make so much noise if a polar bear decides to show his/her flukes in front of the ship. Our collective oohing and ahhing over the whales had far exceeded the prohibited earshot emission for polarbears (PEEP) standard. In other words, the Captain doesn't want to hear a PEEP out of us again.

Lest those of you from the Hanseatic Antarctica tour think you continue to hold the Mud Room Mudslinging Trophy, let me assure you .. you do! The Germanic contingent is small or non-existent on this cruise. The only slight nod to Germanic gymnastics was when Fritz tried to sell Gary on wearing multiple pairs of socks to accommodate oversized gum boots. Kevlar Kohler (a Swiss-German by ancestry) swung that idea aside, sending Fritz flurrying for fitter footwear. Das ist richtict!

Prince Albert II is not a ship for fools. It bears an ever so slight resemblance to the Sarah Winchester home in California, with its staircases to no where, luxurious history and appointments, and its unexpected dead ends. Navigating the ship takes a few tries .. and breadcrumbs to retrace your steps in the early going. Cabin amenities and luxuries are enough to make the ICE B deckers swoon with joy. No self-sticking shower curtains here.

We enjoyed our favorite Sauvignon Blanc, Dashwood of New Zealand, over chicken and chili salad at lunch. Bear Island (locally known as Bjornoyo, so named by the unnamed Italian explorer who first saw the Island at daylight) came into view. Two of the zodiac groups are now out on tour, with our group assigned to the 1630 slot.

POOCH is underway and a new lecture due to start momentarily. More to follow .. but not sure when.

:app: Per usual, Anne, GREAT seamail. You always have me in stitches!!! :app:

Wonderful new SeaMail, Anne! Delivered in the swell wit and humor we have come to expect from you. Hope there is much more to come! Keep having fun!

Great Seamail, as usual, Anne. When you started, I thought you were going to launch into an old sea ditty. You may need more breadcrumbs after imbibing-stock up!

You've outdone yourself this time, Anne! Can't wait for more! :app: :app:

Great start to the seamail - love having you as our roving reporter, Anne! So glad you aren't battling in the boot room!

Do you have Juan Carlos and Robin on board? They are terrific!

One would expect nothing less than terrific reporting from such a colorful reporter! No one does it better, Anne!

All I can say is "Oh my" Anne, as usual you do an amazing job of making us all feel like we are there even though we actually are not - Wow.

Oh my is right, Anne always amazes me with her seamails. Truth is, I lent her my computer once in Africa on ROAR 2, and with her fingers flying, in just a few short minutes she put out a similar one, her mind is that quick.

The visuals for comparison were wonderful.......ICE B decker, I was one, and this ship sounds great (I had forgotten about the self stick shower curtains)! Luggage on VJ7, how could it get more fun that that (It's not so bad...okay, for 10 minutes rather than 2 hours)! And the Sara Winchester House, now that was funny, having visited Sara's delightful crazy house. And PEEP, sort of reminds me of Anne's JTIT's (Junior Tracker in Training) etc. from ROAR 2. How unfortunate they are going out of range for seamail. Anne,your land-locked buddies will be the ones having no-net DT's!

You continue to entertain us with a wit unique to you! Can't wait for the next installment!

Ngaire that was a fantastic picture of you and Ralph!

wonderful tale telling. can't wait for more

one question--those boots--do shoes go in them or just a bunch of socks?

Anne's post tells it all. What a talent for writing she posseses.

We have internet for a few minutes only I am sure. We saw a polar bear today!! He was sleeping and not moving much reminded me of sleeping lions. Then there were Walrus on the beach and one in the water. We were hoping the walrus would haul himself up on the beach. No such luck. We had the CAPTAIN driving our private zodiac today. The gals all thought he can drive our zodiac anytime. Handsome man!

Tonight we all have dinner with members of the expedition team.

Pooch is pretty even so far with many challengers to Ralph's title.

Diane - just socks inside the boots - one or two pairs.

What's the captain's name, Ngaire/Anne? May be the same one we had in Feb.2009 on PAII Ushuaia to Valpairaiso (the bad storm, but a great trip) Of course, I can't remember his name but may if I heard it - he was very handsome - tall, good photographer, had his girlfriend on board.

Thanks for the wonderful seamail Annie, Ngaire & Ralph & terrific photo, Ken. Walrus & a polar bear... :banana:

Yes to the B deck.

Have a great time. It is 104 in Dallas today.

Thanks Leslie--I'm such a novice

sweet cute novice :) :) :hug: :hug:

novice who is going to fall out of that zodiac and into the penguin quano at the first opportunity==

Diane - there's no missing the guana!

Decided to write a little as we go along so if we luck out and get internet I will have my post ready to publish on LCT. The trick for those of you who do not know this yet, if there is FOX reception on a cruise ship TV then there is an internet connection

August 5 – catching up on events so far---

Ken may try and post pictures but there may not be explanations to go with them as we really are lucky to get anything out. When we posted the picture of Ralph and me we had others ready but lost internet.

Yesterday afternoon we did a zodiac tour of Bear Island. Fabulous scenery with nesting birds on steep cliffs of many varieties. Highlights were going through a cave and seeing the new chicks that literally fall from the cliffs to join the fathers as they prepare to leave and go to sea. We did not see any take that huge leap from the cliffs but saw some little ones in the water.

Last night was the Captains welcome aboard cocktail party and dinner. Most men had jackets but those that did not (Ken included) were welcomed warmly and it was not a big deal. We had a WONDERFUL meal with a main of Lobster and filet mignon, an outstanding dinner. We enjoyed a celebration of Jim and Pats anniversary. It was a great night. We stayed up too late visiting and did not go to bed until about midnight. Where the energy comes from when you feel pooped I do not know.

This morning we slept in and the ship had two lectures but they were shown on TV live so we could see these from our cabin. A nice lunch of LAMP CHOPS (yes I was happy) and a game of pooch. Winners today were Jim T and Gary.

Our initial plan was to land and see a group of walrus. Problem was they saw two polar bears on the island so that means NO landing. Instead we did another zodiac ride and went to see one of the polar bears that had wandered down closer to the shore and a small group of walrus on the beach. During lunch we could see the bear walking around but by the time we got there he had run out of energy and was sleeping on the rocks. There was one walrus that was more fun raising his head out of the water. We were all hoping he would haul himself on land to join the walrus already on the shore but he did not oblige us. We got reasonably close to him about 100 yards I am terrible judging distances. You really needed binoculars to see the animals well.

At the recap tonight we were told due to the perfect weather and ice conditions we are going to circumnavigate not just the main Island of Spitzbergen but go around the permanent eastern ice cap of Austfonna on the island of Nordaustlandet (names for Marc who will look this up on a map and I am sure he may like to do that). No ship has done for two years and this is new territory for many of the expedition staff as well. They are all really excited about this opportunity. Supposedly the chance of excellent polar beat sighting is really high for tomorrow in this area.

We had a nice dinner tonight with the expedition staff everyone enjoyed this evening. This is one of the best expedition teams I have ever encountered. Robin (a female) enchanted us with her wonderful stories of Antarctica where she lived for four months. Ice diving and her encounter with a leopard seal, out on a snowmobile when a blizzard came up and she huddled in front of her snowmobile and all the penguins huddled around her as well as they just sought the biggest “rock” they could find for protection. The other two tables also had a great time with their expedition team members. Juan Carlos the “rock” guy who is really nice was actually a zodiac driver when we were all on the Explorer ll on ICE. Food was great with a wonderful veal loin and also a great sea trout.

August 6, 2010

Today we woke up at 7.30 am to do a landing, dead calm outside but the landing was cancelled due to fog, it is too dangerous for us to land without having visibility to see Polar Bears in the area. Back for a quick snooze while we waited for the fog to lift. No such luck so on we sailed to a huge glacier. The sun was shining not a ripple on the water with zero wind. Spectacular scenery the cameras were clicking away. After we left the glacier some of us had a quick game of pooch finally I won a game.

Then we had a nice lunch, mixed grill, salmon and other wonderful goodies. The food has been really great.

After lunch we headed to Alkefjeller an area of a large colony of guillemots perched on sheer rock cliffs, over 10,000 breeding pairs. The ship came really close and we drifted sideways in front of this magnificent rock formation. Every tiny ledge was covered with birds I am sure Ken got some good pictures but no picture could do this scene justice. It was different than being in a zodiac as we were at the same height as some of the nesting birds rather than looking up at them from the water. They look like penguins and there was a pink algae in the snow that look like “penguin poop”. Thought I was on the wrong end of the planet! The weather was again perfect, no wind, bright sunshine the expedition team were very excited about the conditions and had their cameras out as well.

I can't wait to see Ken's pictures!! For a petlover like me, I'd be in heaven with all these animal sightings !!!!!!!!

I think I've overdue to at least go to San Diego zoo.

a snoozing polar bear. how cool

Ngaire...it sounds like an amazing cruise. Until the pics are posted we can visualize, thanks to your posts!

Ngaire, do you think your bird of the "pink penguin poop" might be a puffin? They are the only bird I can think of that looks like a penguin but lives in the northern hemisphere.

Some internet it will not last I hope this time Ken can get some pictures out. He will post them in the order we took them if it works.

Continuation August 6, 2010.

Got back from a GREAT walrus sighting and have some "on and off" internet. Ken will try to post some pictures that may or may not work. It keeps losing the signal.

I continue the saga of ARCTIC

We were in the first group to leave for the landing to see walrus on a beautifully sunny day with no wind and totally calm seas. We were not disappointed. Walrus can be like elephant seals in Antarctica. They just lay there like blobs. Today we had a couple that were active, well active relative to discussing walrus activity on land. One big walrus in the front was constantly scratching, sitting up and looking at us and rolling around. I am sure many have some great shots.

Ralph’s grandson Brayden is an absolute doll who I would take on any trip any time and know that everyone would enjoy having him along. He seems more like a 20 year old than a 12 year old. He is engaging the expedition staff and getting so much out of the trip. He tries new things at dinner (unusual for a 12 year old) and is a master at pooch. Brayden is a pleasure to be around. Ralph took a great shot of him today at the walrus sighting talking to an expedition team member who had a gun over his shoulder.

Shortly after the second group arrived on shore the polar bear lookouts spotted two polar bears coming from different directions towards the group and the fog started rolling in at the same time. A major fast exit from the land as everyone grabbed a life vest and boarded the zodiacs. All made is safely back from the shore and I hear from some in the group this was handled extremely well by crew and passengers. The Captain came on the PA congratulating the passengers for the fast and efficient evacuation from the beach.

Then we have a break for cocktails and dinner with Anne and Gary as they celebrate their anniversary. The menu included specially ordered lobster tails and a filet mignon with morel mushroom sauce. Just as we are finishing dinner we arrive at the next major event of the day. The longest glacier in the northern hemisphere approximately 180 kilometers of water frontage. Right outside the dining room window we pass incredibly close to a big iceberg. We leave our coffee and run for the open bridge.

Arriving at the glacier we are quite awestruck. The glacier is in glistening sunlight and there are totally calm seas. This is an ice edge of probably about 60 feet high and you can see the ice shelf stretching as far back as you can see. What was really unique is the waterfalls off this glacier something I have never seen before. This is truly stunning scenery. The edge of the glacier twists and turns and the ship follows the path of the glacier. So hard to go to bed and leave this s so I am typing this as we look out our window at this incredible scenery. Tomorrow POLAR bear watch. We are so BUSY all the time.


August 7, 2010
WHAT A MORNING! Polar Bear Heaven

We sailed very close to the glacier around 6.30 am this morning. Wonderful scenery, then at 8.30 am the PA came on that they had seen three bears on shore. We were in the first group out on the zodiacs this morning and initially we saw the bears but they were all laying down and doing very little. One was on the snow and one was on the rocks. At about the same time they both starting stirring and lifting their heads. One started walking and we could see him well in the binoculars but not that well without them. He was raiding the arctic turns nests and the birds were going crazy. We moved around the area and watched these bears for about 30 minutes and just as we were coming back in we saw two bears together moving over the rocks. We followed the bears with our zodiac and then it really got exciting. One of the bears head was spotted at the top of the rocks. The bear started to walk down to the water. He made his way very slowly and the cameras were going crazy. He came right to the waters edge and looked like he may get in the water to come and visit a nice food source - us. We were so close to the bear you did not need binoculars to see his massive feet and claws. We had the expedition leader in our zodiac and he told all the zodiacs to start backing away. It was an incredible sighting. Cannot imagine it can get better than that. We saw either 5 or 6 polar bears this morning but the one that put on a show for us will never be forgotten.

Beth just saw your post those birds are guillemots. Puffins are not this far north.

Ken just posted pictures he had from our first days. He is hoping to get a polar bear picture done but the internet may fail.

Some Photos:

Love the walrus shot!!!

My heart stirs

Thanks for reports and pictures - Brayden sounds like a great kid!!!

I love the pictures AND the reports, I hope the internet connection doesn't go poof!

After seeing Ken's photos and reading Ngaire's reports, I have one major case of travel envy here. What a fabulous trip. You've truly been blessed with good weather and great wildlife viewing. And then there are the lobster and steak dinners...

What a trip! Ngaire, Anne, your reports paint a spectacular picture -- and Ken, well, what can I say? Your photos are fabulous, as always -- puffin (right?), walrus, polar bear. It just doesn't get any better.

Oh such great pictures Ken. The entire Arctic trip sounds WONDERFUL. Love the seamail and Ralph's blog here http://rlwebstertravels.shutterfly.com/
Even Brayden is contributing to the blog...just love hearing things from his perspective.

Diane is already planning her next trip. I can feel it in my bones. Does she go with her sister or moi?

Betty--I am writing out my Polar Bears downstroke as we speak--did you do yours?

Awesome reports and pictures. Sounds just incredible. Brayden sounds like such a great trooper and fitting right in -- good for him.

Thanks for the latest news.
BYE - love the lazy looking Polar Bear - but I wouldn't want to tangle with him/her.

Thanks for the wonderful reports and pictures. Awesome.

August 5

Glad you liked installment #1.

Diane – socks only in the gum boots. Fit matters . Franz is now crystal clear on this concept.

Leslie – both Robin and Juan Carlos are aboard. Juan lectured on the tale of the Erupting Earth this morning. With that accent and smile, he can tell me about quantum physics. I've sent both of them your regards & they send their best to you and Brad.

Installment 2 – Aug 5

ARCTIC BOW WOW

Aug 4

We're rounding the bend at 78 degrees latitude north. There's a lecture today on beginning photography underway. Hah! The instructor has just owned up to not even knowing how photoshop works.

If they want a sell out audience, offer the “Nature at the Nanosecond Shutter Speed Setting” course. This trip is the Iron Man competition for Wildlife Photography .. try steadying a camera with birds zooming around and the swells jostling the zodiac in all directions. Adjusting one's expectations to getting one or two clear pictures is a must. Should the photos fail even those modest expectations, it's time to launch a breakthrough movement in the photographic arts world .. the dawn of a new photographic age .. Arctic Abstracts in the Twilight of the Midnight Sun.

It turns out Captain Kirk (a/k/a Dick of Dick and Sharon) has the same camera I use, minus a spare battery. Voila! We have a spare and he's got great pictures. Gotta love a group win when you can get one!

Hotu Matua carried us yesterday with Chris from Toronto (he of the booming voice, eh) at the helm. He kept us up to speed on the various birds who nest at Bear Island. The kittiwakes also serve as food for the gulls and the skuas. Brayden saw his first kill, as a skua feasted on a recently dispatched kittiwake juvenile. We traveled through natural water caves and tunnels.

Further afield, we toured The Russian VLVC (very large vodka container), shipwrecked in 2008,. The arctic takes few prisoners and deals with them expeditiously .. the shipwreck has been reduced to a VLC (very large cadaver).

We got the signal from the bridge to turn back, as the sky had spawned the loveliest cloud, swirling and flowing, as the fog was rolling in behind it. It reminded me of the glorious Northern lights … perhaps this was a display of Northern twilights, just for us.

The guillemot bird's family life is an interesting story. Mothers take off to feed themselves when the chicks hatch, leaving their care to the fathers. The fathers feed the chicks in the nest just until the wings are developed enough to break a fall but not yet strong enough for the chick to fly. The fathers then swim in the water below the nests, calling their chicks to literally jump in. Once the youngsters take the big leap, they stay in the water together. We were lucky enough to be there just at the fathers returned. The adults formed a mass Chris called a 'raft' around the flock's young. The youngsters know they must quickly find their fathers, so erupt with their high-pitched calls. The parents fervently call back, as adults surround the young and wait for the fathers to arrive. The sea was aswirl with the sea bird movement and so alive! Chris held us steady as two of the babies swimming right up to their fathers drifted towards the zodiac, confirming with more calls they had each found the right parent and child.

Nature is amazing in these moments .. think of the long odds, tempered by determination and massing of the flocks, faced by the sea birds in raising their young to maturity.

Today we were set for a wet landing to hike on Kapp Lee at Doloritesnesset (Dolomites = Italy (m as in Mediterannean) Dolorites = Northernmost NORGES (r as in Reindeer)) in Edgeoya (Edge Island in English; have some fun and play 'stump Spellcheck' with that one). Our expedition team spent the morning making and breaking plans. The final plan? BOW WOW – Bears Or Walruses While On the Water. A one hour zodiac tour around the bay.

Two – count 'em, two – polar bears were near the landing site and five young walruses were curled up, asleep like puppies, on the shore. Captain Golubev personally drove our zodiac, Norgeskjold, for this outing. His rule: “Either bears on the island or visitors .. never both”. He reminded us .. immediately .. not a PEEP out of you people. Quiet reigned. The bear was sound asleep near the radio tour in the bay. We did get one picture with his eyes half open. Our Austrian guide provided quiet commentary, until the Captain said “Walrus in the Water”. A much older walrus (how do I know? BIG tusks) was floating around, taking in the odd sight of hunters in red camouflage and black rubber boats. Brayden was running the video while we were all on our knees, trying for a perfect picture. The Captain more than did his part .. does he know how to give a smooth zodiac ride or what? He carefully orchestrated the various zodiacs so everyone got as close as was safe to get their pictures, and he managed to barely jostle the boat. He is, for good reason, our hero of the day.

We have movies on demand to keep us entertained. I'm enjoying watching 'Nanook of the North' – the silent film from the 1920s about an Inuit chief on the north eastern side of Hudson Bay) – as it puts me right to sleep. Formal entertainment is limited to a very good pianist in the Panoramic Lounge around tea time and after dinner.

Who can compete when there's an explosion of nature going on around us in one of the furthest corners of the earth, with great traveling companions and our favorite leaders here as guides? Freemontbreen is our first glacier and we're just starting to pass it by on the port side. It IS a wonderful world.