Quick post from China. We arrived in Beijing and we had one day there and we went “you guessed it” to the Pearl Market. I had orders to fill. Five hours later we returned to our hotel and weighed the pearls – 16 lbs worth. Weather was nice and we had a lovely suite at the Penninsula. We revisited Molly Malone’s Irish Pub for dinner just to retrace our steps from our last trip with the post Kangaroo group.

Next day we flew from Beijing to Lijiang in Southern China. We are staying at the Banyan Tree – a beautiful resort with a really nice room. Very Asian in design yet Western in the luxurious comforts for the guests, free internet, large TV with English channels, living area, large bathroom and a bed that looks right at the snow mountains.

Flying in it was very mountainous and we saw our first glance of the Yangtze River from the air. Tourism really only started here in 1996 and this area is popular with Chinese and the international tourism is growing and they want to increase this as the entire town is now focused on tourism. I noticed how clean and nicely landscaped the town and countryside was and found out there is only one factory in the town and that factory makes bricks for the new development to accommodate the new industry of tourism. There is a brand new modern airport, new highways and hotels and restaurants. They still seem to be learning how to drive as they drive VERY slowly and on the new two lane road cars were hugging the center lane effectively making it a one lane WIDE road. Our driver had to honk his horn for them to move over so we could pass.

It is like stepping back in time. Many old traditions still take place here and this is supposed to be a man’s paradise. Our guide said the men drink tea, watch TV, play Mahjong and visit. The women do all the work. They do the cooking, cleaning, child care and make the money by working in the fields. The labor force that gathers each day looking for work are all women. He said the men respect the women as they provide a good lifestyle for the men!! Hmm do not think I will be living here. Of course the younger generation is changing things but we did see only women in the fields and on their bicycles with their farm tools, and men sitting around doing nothing.

This town looked large from the air but the guide said only about 350,000 people live here and the peoople in the town are incredibly diverse. There are 23 different cultures all living in this area with their own language, clothing and traditions. There is a universal “merged” language so they can communicate but the other languages are used within their own culture. One of the distinct group lives high in the mountains and the women are in charge and they can have as many husbands as they want. Men can only have one wife. The women control everything. Probably move there if I had to live in Lijiang!

These different cultures are very visible as you see people dressed in completely different ways hopefully Ken can get some pictures tomorrow. There is an “OLD TOWN” that is supposed to be wonderful and we will be walking that tomorrow along with other sightseeing during the day. Of course the young people are still in jeans and tee shirts.

Our guide asked us if we like “spicy” so I filled him in on my limited tolerance for spice and onions. He said not to worry we have lots of western food! Good news for me. We are not touring today just taking it easy we are at an altitude of 8000 feet so they give us an afternoon to acclimatize.

We have two days here and the move onto Tibet, next stop Shangri La. Will try and post as time permits.

Sounds like you are having a fascinating time and you sure are providing us with a great "picture of the landscape"--and not just mountains and trees. Speaking of pictures, Ken ...

I'm sure we're all looking forward to future installments about the possible River cruise and Shangri La.

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Eugene

Thanks, Ngaire. I hung onto your every word. This was so fascinating ... The triP I will lose my job for... Lol

Can't wait for next installment

Sounds fascinating, can't wait to hear (and see) more!

Thank you for the update Ngaire.

Ngaire, WOW what an intriguing trip. Thanks for the report. I can't wait to read more!

Thanks for the interesting post, Ngaire. I've been looking forward to hearing from you. Have a great time!

Sounds like an auspicious beginning! I look forward to more.
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Helen

Sounds fascinating Ngaire. Can't wait to hear what you think about Tibet.

Ngaire, when I began reading your post I thought darn I should have made a request. Then I read you had bought 16 lbs. of pearls!!! You certainly had your hands full without my requests!

At least there is one place in the world where the women rule!!!

I know Ken's photos are great. Would love to see them.

Very interesting. China is just a big mystery for me, but hopefully will get to visit there in the future.

Great day today. We started off going to Yu Hu a rural village about 20 minutes away. The drive took us through the countryside with the women on their way to the fields and the men sitting around drinking tea and “visiting” Ken took a few local shots.

On the way we saw a lot of women with horses and we were not sure what that was all about. We discovered this was for the Chinese tourists who come here and want to ride horses. Kind of like us going to Egypt and wanting to ride a camel. A horse ride holds the same fascination for them. Little stands were selling cowboy hats and everyone riding had purchased one.

The town was fascinating and was functioning as it has for centuries. The women are wearing their traditional clothing and NOT for the tourists this is the normal everyday dress. These are not fancy but very colorful. They all have unique decorative items on their backs. These are like cushions to protect their backs when they carry things on the backs while working in the fields. Ken will post a picture of one of the women’s backs. The grandparents were taking the kids to school, the women were on their way to the fields and of course the men were “taking it easy” Not that many western tourists come here and we were a novelty for them. It was a ton of fun. The houses are pretty nice all basically the same and with decorative doorways. I was surprised at how nice they were and the guide said most people make an okay living there were very few people in poverty.

We then went to Bai Sha Village that had some old frescos depicting the different religions living together in unity. Also some really old pictures from the days that Lijing’s main industry was the tea trade to Tibet. Here it was more commercial with a lot of stalls selling all kinds of things. No on bothered you to look in their store it was so refreshing after being in Egypt.

Next stop Dragon Lake Port. A park with huge trees and flowers, the Dragon Lake, pagodas and beautiful little bridges. Here they have people posing for pictures for tourists in the traditional dress. Ken got a great shot of the four of the girls who do this totally crashed and sound asleep on a bench. My favorite shot of the day. Again mostly Chinese tourists we saw very few western tourists.

Next we went to the OLD TOWN. This was a real old town with a main square with lots of flowers and character. There are now the tourist shops for the “shoppers” with some really nice items for sale. Not as many tee shirt and souvenir shops but nicer goods. NO ONE bothers you so you can browse in peace and enjoy the shopping experience. Some stores are fixed prices you can bargain but it is a more upscale situation than the normal Asian old town experience. The older women and dressed in traditional clothes, for the tourists but because this is what they wear everyday. Life is still functioning in the old town for the residents as it has before. A food market with a wonderful assortment of bugs on a stick just in case you get hungry.

Tonight we went to a show that highlighted the dance of all the minority cultures. We were not expecting much but the scenes, costumes and lighting were really quite spectacular. It was fast paced so it kept your interest.

What has made this place special for us is that the people and children say ‘hello” and are not asking for anything just being friendly. No pressure from the shop keepers and you can see more of the old Chinese culture and rural life here than I have seen anywhere else in China. They also have two really good hotels and easy to get Western food if you want it.

PHOTOS FROM LIJIANG, CHINA:

Thank you, KEN!! Amazing how colorful!

Awesome photos, Ken!

Image of sleeping on bench belongs in National Geographic!

Ted, my thoughts exactly. These look like photos from National Geographic in the 1950s.
Great job as usual Ken.

First let me say I may have my facts wrong particularly in Tibet. This is a complex situation we think we “got it” to hear something that contradicts what we thought we understood. No books to be purchased to help in Lijiang or so far in Tibet. Just not those touristic items to be found and that is really quite refreshing in a way. Internet bit slow and little time to research anything so you just have to take what I can get from the guides.

It was with great reluctance that we left Lijiang it was a wonderful place full of culture, friendly people and interesting things to see. In 1996 they had a big earthquake and it was when they were rebuilding they decided to build facilities to attract tourists. They had enough to see but no facilities for tourists. This is why so much of the old culture is still here it was a total farming rural community. They are all happy about that earthquake it changed their lives and most are very happy with the changes. Ten years from now it will probably not be anything like it is today.

It is kind of fun to be one of only a handful of western tourists but with enough facilities to make it a comfortable place to visit. I really needed another day here as I could not complete seeing all the places I wanted to see. The guide, Bruce was wonderful. For people who went on one of the Nile trips, on the lines of Henry and Hany, informative and so friendly and genuine you warm up to him very quickly. He also “knew his stuff” and would talk about anything you wanted to know. Those of you who know me are aware I have limited capacity for guides and go into information overload very quickly. That did not happen with Bruce I found he shared a lot of information in an interesting way so you do not go into guide overload and I was hanging on everything he said

We took a long 7 hour day trip from Lijiang to Shangri La. Gorgeous scenery including the Tiger Leaping Gorge, 1200 steps down and 1200 steps up. I decided on the chair where I was carried up and down like a princess. Ken of course took a picture. Best $30 I have ever spent. They are building a new highway through the mountains that will cut the time down to about two hours. It is well on its way should be finished in about two years.
One lane mountain roads and passing other traffic consistently fortunately we had a very good driver. Ken and I were so sorry to say goodbye to Bruce and you could tell he was a little sad as well.

Off with our new Tibetan guide. A lady named Wan Mor. Perfect, I always “Want More” easy name to remember. She is interesting she WALKED to India with a girlfriend so she could learn English and get work. On that hike she met a Tibetan man (also walking to India) that she married. Then she married his two brothers she has three husbands. She has one son. No matter who is the father the oldest brother is always the “father” and the other two husbands are “uncles” A woman can have three husbands but she only goes through the marriage ceremony with the first husband and the additional husbands must be brothers of her first husband. If one of her husbands wants another wife he can only marry his current wife’s sister. Imagine the family politics in this arrangement. She is a guide and her husband is cook and we are going to eat at his restaurant today. He works for a restaurant that is owned by a French chef. Most restaurants have both Chinese and western items on their menus but the western items are not that great. We are hoping with a Frenchman in charge maybe the western items will be better.

There is also a very remote culture (the Yei people I think) and there are two distinct groups within this culture, the Black group (royalty and high class) and the White Group (lower class). They live in small villages and will not allow any outsiders (including regular Tibetans) into their town. Marriages are arranged at birth and always within their own class. They have their own school for children completely cut off from the regular world. We were able to look down on their village. They live off the land in a very orderly looking complex with each house and small yard fenced off with Yaks, goats and sheep in their pastures.

Tibetan homes are large, the winter is harsh and the livestock live on the bottom floor and the family lives on the top floor. We saw this on the Russian River trip as well. I cannot imagine the smell I guess you get used to anything. Almost every thing shuts down in the winter, no restaurants etc everyone just stays home.

On the way into town we saw a HUGE complex. It is was a middle and high school compulsory for all students from 13 years of age and it is a boarding school. They can go home on the weekends. Holds literally thousands of students and opened just last year.

We are in the Banyan Tree Ringha hotel. The rooms a big suites like a Tibetan house, bedroom upstairs and bathroom downstairs. Our elevation is 11,000 feet and Ken and I are feeling the effects. Little bit of a headache and walking uphill is a strain you get puffed quickly.

Ken’s been out taking photos of the people in the countryside our hotel is surrounded by farms and locals and we are about to leave to do a days touring. The dress here is fascinating lots of “head gear” for the different minorities. Some huge black hats should be a great day for Ken and his camera.

Family politics indeed!!

I am not surprised you are feeling the effects of the altitude, it does make a difference.

I am eagerly awaiting your additional impressions of Tibet and the sights you see

This just sounds so amazing, ngaire. Something that would be right down my and George's alley.

Loving the reports and pictures...at least your tibetan hotel room in the style of their houses has no livestock!

Love your reports, Ngaire and as always Ken's pictures are beautiful!

Sorry - double post.

PHOTOS LEAVING LIJIANG, CHINA AND ENTERING TIBET:


Yangtze River in China.






Entrance to Tiger Leaping Gorge.






Yangtze River at Tiger Leaping Gorge in Tibet.


Yie Village in Tibet.

This river next to the Banyon Tree flows into the Yangtze River.


Inside a Tibetan House.


View from the restaurant we had lunch at.

Ngaire, sounds like you are on a neat adventure. Wonderful photos, Ken.

Ngaire, this is my dream destination. It is the ultimate place for someone with deep apirtual beliefs. The difficulty in getting there has always been a stumbling block. We cannot wait for further reports.

Our time in Tibet.

Ken had a great morning walking the fields with the yaks, pigs, sheep and farmers as you can see by his picture. We visited the Monastery that was very ornate with monks everywhere. We saw the young monks very excited buying ice cream.

The guide then took us to one of her friend’s houses. The young couple were not home they were at work. This was the real thing – not a sanitized version for the tourists. You enter into a courtyard where they had a pig in a pen. Then up some stairs to one huge room with cooking in the corner and benches around the stove where guests sit and visit as the food is cooking. There was some sparse furniture and they had electricity, and no TV or computers in sight. The mother lives in the same courtyard area in a small room and she invited us in and was boiling water for yak butter tea that we declined as nicely as we could. It was a small room very dark and her bed was in the corner. She was so sweet and welcoming. Ken took a picture he will post it.

As I mentioned before we asked to eat lunch at the restaurant where her husband works as a cook owned by a Frenchman. We wound around these back roads it seemed forever and Ken and I wondered where we were going. We stopped and walked a little way and the restaurant appeared. It was really nice, attractive pine furniture and a view of a pagoda from the window. We were on the edge of the “old town” and had come in the back way to park closer to the restaurant. The owner was delightful and very welcoming and helped decipher the menu for us that was Tibetan. We had some yak meat cooked in foil (tastes just like beef) some vegetables and some potatoes that were like potato chips but they were hot. We finished off with some wonderful French coffee, he said a Frenchman must have good coffee. It was all very good we really enjoyed the experience.

We then visited a lake and saw the black headed crane, and more yak, sheep and pigs than you can imagine. The yaks go out to graze and then all go home to the family that owns them as they are fed at night. Pretty good system!

Early the next morning we left for Lhasa and were surprised to be in first class that was nice! Flying in we flew over so many snow covered mountains. It was only a 90 minute flight. Once we got our bags we met our new guide. We knew he was going to be good you can tell right away. His name is Buchung and his driver is Nissan (good name for a driver). Great English he guides National Geograhic groups and has guided Peter Hilary many times at Mount Everest.

Arriving at the new St.Regis we are in heaven with the room, it is so well designed just works in every way. Even five English TV stations including HBO which is nice, we are so used to certain things that we miss when they are not available. Great sounding menu as well.

At 2.30pm we left for a half days touring. We went to the Jokhang Temple that was quite an experience. There were a lot of pilgrims visiting the temple and as we walked through Bughung got quite excited. There is a Buddha called Bakhor and usually this Buddha cannot be viewed, but the pilgrims were making an offerings of gold so they were allowing just the pilgrims in to walk around the Buddha. He said only pilgrims could enter. He asked us to wait and made his way inside. Then he motioned for us to come and we joined the line of pilgrims and walked around the Buddha. Inside this room was very ornate with many Buddha’s of course we could not really grasp the significance of all of this but they were chanting and to touch Bakhor is very special. Our guide wanted us to touch the Bakhor and of course we did. When we got out I asked him how he managed that and I think he knew one of the Monks. Anyway he was flushed with excitement that was quite contagious. Ken got a shot of a monk that we thought was interesting at the temple he will post when we have time.

We then walked through the Bharkhor district. This is a huge area of shops selling all kinds of things to local and pilgrim Tibetans and tourists. Mostly jewelry, clothes, prayer beads and flags. Not many western tourists. There is a strong Chinese police and military presence. So many people wearing their traditional costumes, these are not fancy but they all wear the same things for their own minority. One girl from Southern Tibet had the longest corn braided hair and lots of turquoise jewelry. I am hoping Ken got a picture of her. He was taking a ton of shots.

Tomorrow is another day we are at 12,000 feet here feeling it a bit but not a problem, more adventures to come.

Love the commentary and the pictures!!

Can't wait to see Ken's photos from your descriptions.

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Eugene

Any good Chinese restaurants there?

Enjoyed your commentary. I had to laugh at the Olive Bistro--so darn American---sounded like Olive Garden, written in English, in the background, in one of Ken's photos. It was so out of place.

You are definitely having some fascinating experiences. Enjoy reading & seeing them all.

Ken's amazing, colorful photos and Ngaire's Asiamail are drawing me to Tibet. Looking forward to more.

Ngaire, I think the puppy wants to go home with you!He is looking so lovingly at you.
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Helen

Old China, that's what fascinates me.

Nice to have a bucket list.

Cheers! Ray

Quick post. Last night we went to the dining room planning on a light meal. They had a buffet with LAMB CHOPS along with Chicken stuffed with spinach and lots of vegetables, shrimp all kinds of wonderful food items. Desserts were fabulous and they also had hagen daz ice cream. The buffet was huge. It came with a glass of wine. I was expecting the Chinese wine we have been getting that is not that good. They come over with the wine it was Wolfblass Shiraz, I could not believe it. One of my favorite wines!

Lamb, Chicken, vegetables, good wine and ice cream. I REALLY ate too much I was like a kid in a candy store. Came back to the room and between gluttony and lack of oxygen I was a zombie!

Ken posted the pictures above and we both just crashed. Now we are going to breakfast and I am sure this will be fabulous too. This hotel the St. Regis is REALLY good. Not only is the room large it is perfectly planned. Counter space, two closets, toto (Japanese the best) toilet, bathtub. Big plasma TV, huge bed, big nightstands, wonderful lighting. Could stay here forever.

Lucky you now that the St Regis has opened!

Sounds way better than the the Xin Ding, "self-proclaimed" 6 star hotel, with its rock hard beds and in-house brothel, where we stayed in 2007.

Ngaire, glad you are enjoying Tibet; it was a highlight of our trip to China. The temples and monasteries were fantastic. I will really be interested in your impressions of Yangzi Explorer; we were on during their first season.