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need help with fashion question for males #124951 02/11/05 12:24 PM
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Colleen Offline OP
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I had an interesting but not informative conversation with Ted yesterday. It went like this.

Me: Is there a difference among a sports coat, a suit jacket, and a dinner jacket?

Ted: Yes

Me: Well, what is it.

Ted: I can't explain but you can't wear a suit jacket as a sports coat.

Me: Why?

Ted: It doesn't work.


Ok, I believe my husband but can anyone explain what he is talking about.


Colleen
Re: need help with fashion question for males #124952 02/11/05 01:11 PM
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LChoi98 Offline
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Well, the Brooks Brothers catalog doesn't allow for suit jackets to be worn independent of a suit so that's why the combination doesn't work. There's probably a better fashion explanation, but most men (at least just me) know nothing about this stuff other than what the salesperson at a store says to buy what is printed (i.e., suggested) in a Brooks Brothers catalog.

Re: need help with fashion question for males #124953 02/11/05 01:45 PM
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Kathleen Offline
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Okay, not a guy, but I'll give it a shot and others can correct me.

Sportcoat - normally worn with pants that do not match the same fabric as the coat. Often you'll see tweed sportcoats, for example, worn with plain pants. Or camelhair sportcoats, etc. Normally considered to be more casual than a suit. For example, most places my husband worked before "business casual" came into being frowned on wearing a sportcoat and slacks to work.

Suit - pants and coat match.

Dinner Jacket - used for formal attire.

That's my understanding of it all, at any rate. Hopefully more of the guys will chime in. :)

Kathy

Re: need help with fashion question for males #124954 02/11/05 02:16 PM
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Jim B Offline
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Suits.
Normally solid or muted soft plaids, stripes, checks, etc.
Always have a matching pair of slacks with them.
They usually have a soft matching colored button.
They usually have a "set in" pocket. Some with flaps some without.
And believe it or not but on some manufactures the cut of the coat is slightly different. Maybe longer, maybe slightly wider so that there is a natural flow from the coat to the slack. That also is why suit pants are usually fuller thru the legs and you don't have a cut or contrast between the coat and pants. Suit slacks should never be tight when standing. They are not jeans or casual slacks which usually have a trimmer cut.
Blazers.
Are solid and come in all kinds of colors from bright to very soft.
They normally have lower patch pockets, and some have patch lapel pocket.
They can have metal, plastic, design, or matching buttons.
They are normally considered more casual, but still give a dress look.
Sports Coats.
may have matching buttons, but sometimes may have a bright button that is in the same color pattern as coat.
They may be solid but normally are found from bold to very soft plaids, stripes, checks, and what ever you can thing of.
With Blazers and sports coats you WANT to wear a slack that coordinates with the colors. You DO NOT want to try and put a pair of slacks with them that is CLOSE to the same color, but doen't quiet make it. In other words don't try to fake a suit when it is not one.
If a person does not dress up very often my first recomondation would be to buy a Navy Blue Blazer.
Then buy a pair of medium grey and tan or Khaki slacks.
Then put with this a white and light blue dress shirt. Find a tie (or maybe two), that have the colors that have the coat, pants, and shirt in it.
TUX
Really are suits but usually have some satin trim on them somewhere.

ps.
When you have your coat on check to make sure that the length of the coat is long enough to cover your slack pockets. You should not see them sticking out below the coat.

Does this help Colleen?

Re: need help with fashion question for males #124955 02/11/05 02:44 PM
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Colleen Offline OP
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Jim, all that business about the cut/pockets/buttons helps alot. But why couldn't you wear a blue suit jacket with khaki pants as if it were a sports coat?

And what is the cut/button/pocket combination on a dinner jacket? Ted wants a white dinner jacket but he doesn't have a tux or tux pants to wear with it. He has a black suit. Is a dinner jacket more like a suit coat or more like a sports coat?

I always heard for men that the length of the coat should be to their hands making a fist. A loose fist should just cradle the bottom of the suit coat.


Colleen
Re: need help with fashion question for males #124956 02/11/05 03:03 PM
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Jim B Offline
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It is ok to wear a blue suit coat with a pair of Khakis. Most people will never no or care.
I know the difference (25 years in the business)but feel that on a cruise packing light is important.
Normally dinner jackets are suit cuts. Wearing black slacks is what I would wear. Who cares about missing a little satin strip down your pant leg.
The problem with the hand making a fist or cuffing the bottom of the coat is. Some people have shorter arms than others but may have a longer torso. They then will have a coat way to short. Same is true the other way long arms but short torso which of course will make the coat to long.
Adjusting sleeve length on the coat is the way to go.
Correct, (but most guys don't like it), length of sleeves is to have your hands hanging straight down to your side, in a relaxed comfort position. The sleeve should be where your wrists meets your thumb.
I always found a little longer feels better to most guys.
They always reach out and extend their arms and say "these are to short". Well I always said something like, "oh I see you walk around like that?" "Arms down and to the side."
More questions?

Re: need help with fashion question for males #124957 02/11/05 03:33 PM
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Pam Offline
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Jim, I'm so glad you came along! I started to say something about there possibly being a difference in the way the coats were cut, but decided that I was probably seeing things. So I didn't.

Re: need help with fashion question for males #124958 02/11/05 04:19 PM
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robert Offline
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Boy, Jim, you are a regular walking Brooks Brother!


Robert

Go confidently in the direction of your dreams. Live the life you've imagined.
-Thoreau
Re: need help with fashion question for males #124959 02/11/05 06:04 PM
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gopack Offline
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Wow, Jim, I am sooooo impressed with your knowledge of clothing!! I was a fashion merchandising major in college back, well, way back when. But we never talked about men's clothing or suits. I am going to print out your info and give it to my Jim. He may learn something, too!!

If he ever has a clothing question, he knows who to ask.


Ginny

August 2005 / RSSC Voyager / Baltic's
June 2004 / RSSC Mariner/ Alaska
March 2004 / RSSC Diamond/ Caribbean
Re: need help with fashion question for males #124960 02/11/05 10:05 PM
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Masaki Offline
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Jim - I'm impressed too! I was wondering whether there actually was a difference ... now I know.

Masaki

Re: need help with fashion question for males #124961 02/12/05 07:41 AM
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Colleen Offline OP
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OK, Jim, one more question about coat length. You say the coat should cover the pockets. Do you mean the pocket opening or the whole pocket which is partly down the leg. So if you have something in the pocket you can't see the bulkiness or whatever.


Colleen
Re: need help with fashion question for males #124962 02/12/05 08:07 AM
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MarnaLou Offline
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Jim, I've heard that black is the new blue for sport coats. What do you think?


MarnaLou
Re: need help with fashion question for males #124963 02/12/05 12:12 PM
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Jim B Offline
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I mean the complete pocket. Or the bottom of the pocket which always sticks out because guys always carry to much stuff in their pockets.
One thing that always comes into play.
Some guys will not wear their slacks up where they belong. "around the waist." This does make it a little tough to follow this guide line.
Yes MarnaLou: That is very true and a Black Blazer would work just fine. Really you can do the same color combinations with it.
Don't forget that for a 3rd or 4th shirt option you can go with the current fashion colors. Like burgundy,,yellow, green, etc.

Probably one of the most wonderful thing that some MFG's have done is the suit seperates.
Where you buy the coat and slack seperately but it still is a suit. Boy does that save a lot of alterations!!

Re: need help with fashion question for males #124964 02/12/05 05:19 PM
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jhp Offline
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Oh yes, men always keep a lot of stuff in their pants pockets. I learned a little tip awhile ago re: ladies suits. Don't pull out the threads that have your jacket pockets sewn shut. If you do, you will just put stuff in them, and it will take away from the line of the suit. Don't know if men even have this option, but the same rule should apply. Some of my suit "pockets" aren't even real. But it pays not to open them, as they just sag from then on, and the flaps can get tucked unknowingly if you put your hands in them. Gosh, one more off-topic thread that can be informative. I think Jim B used to be in men's retail, right, Jim?

Re: need help with fashion question for males #124965 02/12/05 05:56 PM
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Jim B Offline
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Yes I was in the Mens' Retail business for about 25 years. (Ladies for 10), Got out of it in 1995.
You are right about the sewn pockets.
Most suits and sports coats pockets are sewn shut.

Re: need help with fashion question for males #124966 02/13/05 04:58 AM
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KarenS Offline
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Olivia, I wish I would of thought to keep the stitches in Mark's pockets! He is a regular McGuyver, he keeps everything in his pockets!


Karen

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Re: need help with fashion question for males #124967 02/13/05 12:59 PM
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Colleen Offline OP
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Call me stupid, but what is the use of a pocket if you can't use it?

I hate women's dressy clothes because they have no pockets. I love my jeans, dockers, cargo pants and I use all the pockets. Then again, I never claim to be a fashion plate. But I'd love to have a place to put a tissue, some chap stick, and a room key without having to carry even a small eveing bag. I hate having to carry things and I love having my hands free.

Sorry, just a rant here.


Colleen
Re: need help with fashion question for males #124968 02/13/05 03:40 PM
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Mrs. Masaki Offline
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Ahh, that explains Jin's very impressive explanation! Good memory, Oliiva!

Re: need help with fashion question for males #124969 02/13/05 03:57 PM
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jhp Offline
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Colleen, I'm not a fashion plate either, and I stuff things into my pockets all the time with casual clothes. I just heard that pocket thing on TV from some "dress for success type lady" a couple of years ago, and it does keep a better line to the suit. However, I like to keep a hanky or tissue available, and have resorted to tucking it into an inside breast pocket in a suit if there is one, or in my skirt waistband! Usually, however, I have some appendange hanging over my shoulder to hold the things you spoke of and still keep free hands. After all, I am an evil smoker, and that takes storage space!


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