Ship’s Log
Thursday, November 17, 2005
Approaching Moorea and Papette French Polynesia
5:30 AM
Sunny 78 Degrees
Sea Smooth
Speed: 19 Kn
Heading 229 Degrees
Location:
16 55’ 26” S
149 10’ 36” W

Good morning! We will be in Moorea in a few hours, but I’ve fallen behind on my reports so I’ll try to catch you up this morning.

First let me tell you about our day in Nuku Hiva. The island is only 330 square kilometers but if you measured it vertically it would be much larger. As you approach from the sea you observe sheer peaks erupting from the ocean. It is very lush, but you can’t imagine the effort it must take to go upcountry! The tallest peak is Mt. Tokao (1,208 meters).

Nuka Hiva has one very fine bay for anchorage. It was formed long ago by the collapse of a volcanic crater. Thus the town of Taiohae and this bay were formed. This is the administrative capital of the Marquesas Island and has a population of about 1687 people. The entire island reported 2375 inhabitants in the 1996 census.

We tendered ashore shortly after 9 AM and were greeted with leis and music from a Polynesian quartet. Two beautiful Nuku Hivan natives draped the fragrant flowers around our necks and then we were off for some exploration.

It’s very easy to see all of Taiohae by foot but the heat and humidity was enough to convince some to board the shuttle for the ride to several sights. I elected to walk so I had the chance to duck into several very small shops along the way. You really can’t have a shopping spree on Nuku Hiva, there’s just not that much here. Only 5 or 6 ships anchor here each year, and there is only one small resort on the island for tourists. I found a tiny stationary shop and purchased some post cards for my grandsons.

The bayside is pleasant, lots of trees shade the walkway and of course we were all taking photos of the Navigator turning on anchor in the bay.

If you follow the crowd (that would all of the other passengers), you will soon find your way to the Notre Dame Cathedral. It is in a beautiful and very peaceful setting. On the massive doors and inside you’ll find carvings by local artists. All the Stations of the Cross, the pulpit and even the baptismal font are carved of temanu wood. The saints and disciples are portrayed as Polynesians.

When you return to the bayside, you’ll find a ceremonial paepae called Piki Vehine. There are the remains of several stone carvings depicting tikis and sacred events. Unfortunately they are not protected and the elements and some vandalism has taken its toll.

While walking you’ll see many locals on horseback. Several passed me by as I wandered back to the ship. I also saw chickens and other farm animals. Life seems very quiet here but the people were friendly and it was a lovely pause from our seagoing routine.

Yesterday was another of our glorious sea days. While it was somewhat cloudy and we had sporadic showers it didn’t seem to dampen anyone’s spirits. As always there was a full schedule of activities and as a friend noted, she was rushing from one thing to the next.

A troupe of Polynesian dancers joined our ship in Nuka Hiva and they have entertained and instructed us in the Tahitian culture. These beautiful women are charming and the delight of all of the passengers. Our friend Frank was able to snap a wonderful photo of Tom with two of these beauties. Needless to say Tom is grinning from ear to ear!

Well, I see the clock is ticking away. Today I’m going to take the Dolphin Watching tour so I hope to have something exciting to report later.

We will anchor at Moorea for the day and will then sail to Papeete at 6 pm. The crew has planned a Tahitian Dinner under the stars as we sail between the islands. It should be a lovely evening.