Ngaire, the answer to the question you emailed is yes. Sorry everyone--my email replies won't load.

Yesterday was wonderful. A beautiful sail into Tracy Arm, and then a very wet but great row to the face of the glacier on a native canoe. I've never been so close to a glacier before. But it was sad to see a brown waterfall coming off the side of it--our guide says that's the sign of a sick glacier, and it had only formed 3 weeks ago.

Great as yesterday was, I didn't think I could face another day so intimate with the water, so I traded in my rafting trip for a scenic train ride. Leaving shortly....